by Mr.
Klister
Waxing Tools
The right tools can make any job better, faster, easier
and safer. With that in mind, recommendations are offered
here for tools to improve your waxing. The workplace should
be clean, well-lighted and well-ventilated. There should
be a workbench to which you can attach ski vises, or you
should have a portable table/bench. The portables are
nice because you can take them with you on trips. Don't
forget wax remover. I like the citrus based products,
they are non-toxic, non-flammable, bio-degradable and
effective.
Basic tools for all cross-country skis include: 1) a
base flatter, to create a level bottom on your skis; 2)
a true bar or roll pin, to check the flatness of a base;
3) aluminum oxide sandpaper, used for structuring and
base repairs; 4) a brass brush, used to clean and open
structure; 5) nylon, brass and horsehair brushes, to open
structure after waxing; 6) Scotchbrite pads, to scour
away polyethylene hairs after sanding; 7) whatever waxes
you like; 8) a metal scraper, to flatten the base (in
place of a real flatter); 9) a plastic scraper, to remove
excess wax; 10) Fiberlene paper, used to keep bases clean
during tuning; 11) Styrofoam corks for polishing; 12)
an iron for melting wax into the ski base; and 13) a Pozidrive
#3 screwdriver to check the tightness of binding screws.
Telemark skiers who have metal edges on their skis will
want a few more tools. These additions include: 1) P-tex
repair string to melt into gouges; 2) a base repair iron
for melting the P-tex into gouges; 3) a Pansar file or
Surform tool for removing excess p-tex after repairs;
4) a Diamond stone, to remove burrs and rock damage on
steel edges; 5) mill files, to sharpen steel edges; 6)
a file card to clean debris out of the teeth of a file;
7) an Arkansas stone, to remove burs caused by edge filing;
and 8) a gummi stone to polish edges.
Fishing tackle or tool boxes make great storage and carrying
cases for all these tools and supplies.
When working on your skis you should also take certain
precautions to preserve your health. Don't let your waxing
iron get so hot that the wax smokes. This smoke is bad
for your lungs and it means that the grip or glide properties
of the wax have been compromised. It's also a good idea
to wear latex gloves when working with solvents. Don't
forget to wear eye protection, too. Lastly, don't forget
to unplug your wax iron when you are done.
A word about wax irons. Old steam irons or travel irons
are cheap and easy to obtain. Compared to a real waxing
iron, however, they have one serious drawback. Most standard
irons have an inadequate heating plate for waxing. This
results in some parts of the ski base having good wax
penetration while other parts have poor penetration. Real
wax irons do not have this problem because they have a
large heating plate that holds its temperature very well.
If the local ski shops and hardware stores cannot supply
you with the tools you need, you can always resort to
ordering from the catalog companies. Two of the best for
ski tools are Tognar Toolworks: 800-228-9904 or www.snowcrest.net/tognar,
and Reliable Racing Supply: 518-793-5676 or www.reliableracing.com.
